"Caring for your Female English Bulldog" (after Breeding and during Pregnancy)

Caring for your Female English Bulldog after Breeding and during Pregnancy



NO BATHS - soaps and shampoos can be absorbed through the skin, especially flea control concoctions. Clean her with clear, warm water only, taking towels and giving her a good rubdown.

NO MEDICATIONS WHATSOEVER - especially antibiotics. Do not administer any prescribed drugs, nor over the counter medications such as aspirin or Benadryl. And please do not use any worm control agents, not even the heart worm preparations. (This should be the overall rule, but, of course, should sickness strike or there is a need for something, then let a qualified veterinarian make that determination)

QUIET PLEASE - Too much physical exertion can result in miscarriage. She will need moderate exercise such as a nice walk each day but no running and rough play. Let her become lazy.

HEALTHY MOMS BUILD HEALTHY BABES - Feed a good, high protein, quality dog food always. Give her the normal ration of food the first six weeks, then let her eat all she wants the last three weeks. She will require more food, at more times during the day. Her tummy will be crowded by the babies, and she will not be able to eat as much at each feeding therefore will require more often feedings. Some owners feed a high quality puppy food to the expectant mom the last three weeks, and some supplement with calcium tablets. This is up to you.

DO NOT TRY TO FEEL FOR THE PUPPIES - an inexperienced probe for pups can result in serious injury to the babies. You will see and feel them soon enough.

IS SHE, OR ISN’T SHE EXPECTING? - Sometimes you can tell by the seventh week and sometimes you can’t tell even on the due date. Bulldogs carry their babes high in the chest cavity. No veterinarian can do a digital/vaginal examination and confirm the pregnancy. If there is a question as to the pregnancy, an experienced vet will do an X-ray only the last week of the gestation period. Ultra-sounds are not always reliable. X-rays of the female have to be done late enough to allow time for the pups' bones to calcify. X-rays done earlier than the 56th day of the pregnancy can do serious injury to the babes. All vets know this, but some will do weird things to your female just for the money.

CHOOSE YOUR VETERINARIAN WISELY - This cannot be expressed enough. Just because a veterinarian says he/she can do a C-section, in no ways means they can do a C-section on a bulldog. Always ask for ‘bulldog’ proof and check the reference out. It is strongly recommended that you choose a known ‘bulldog’ vet. Ask owners of bulldogs. Check references. Choose a vet who has several other bulldog patients. Be safe, not sorry.

INFORM YOUR VET AS TO THE DUE DATE AND GO FOR THE C-SECTION - We always recommend a Caesarian delivery. The risk of loss is so high when you attempt a natural delivery. Bulldogs tend to ignore pain, and get lazy during delivering. Some just fall asleep half way through the ordeal and the pups are not pushed out.

PROBLEMS WITH THE PREGNANCY - Your female may or may not experience ‘morning sickness’ the first two or three weeks after being bred. During this time she may also not eat very much. By the fourth week she should be eating quite well and appearing to feel fine. Should she appear to be sick or having problems, read the advice below on the particular problem.

1: Lethargy: Many pregnant females will become listless and quiet the last couple of weeks of the pregnancy. As long as she is eating and drinking and getting minimal exercise, she should be fine. Keep a check on her internal body temperature (use a digital rectal thermometer and do regular readings*) As long as there is no rise in temperature to indicate a fever, and there is no heavy discharge from her (censored), then she is okay being so quiet.

2: Vomiting: Vomiting is never 'okay' until you can determine the cause. And be sure it is real vomiting up of food and stomach contents, rather than just the spitting up of phlegm from throat congestion. An upset stomach is the usual cause of vomiting, and this can be controlled by diet. Try to determine why she may have an upset stomach. A special treat, or a too rich food, can cause a little upset. And this type of upset may not show up for six to twelve hours after eating. Check her temperature (rectally) and if you notice a slight rise in temperature, but no more vomiting, then check her temperature again in an hour or so. Vomiting can cause a temporary rise in temperature but it should go back down to normal very soon. And follow this advice - vomiting one time is cause for checking temp, and avoiding any food other than her normal diet. Vomiting two times is cause for a little more concern, the checking of temp, and no food or treats for eight hours. Vomiting a third time, regardless of temp or diet, is reason to call your veterinarian. And this count on vomiting means per episode - with each episode being at least an hour apart in time, but within a twenty-four hour period of time.

Projectile vomiting is much more serious. Projectile vomiting is when the dog actually vomits so hard that the matter coming up is sprayed a distance from her mouth, and usually occurs more than once in quick succession. Projectile vomiting is usually the result of something in the stomach blocking a digestion duct. Call your vet immediately.

3: (censored) Discharge: This is the subject you must study carefully. Most (censored) discharges will not be noticed until the fifth week and later, unless the female had an infection to begin with, such as a urinary tract infection. This is why it is always important to have the female examined by a veterinarian prior to breeding. Note too, that (censored) discharges are usually a thick or stringy substance, not just thin and watery. Thin and watery discharges may be from the urinary tract. Both are reasons for concern, but the list below is referring to (censored) discharges.

A small amount of an odorless, clear, mucous, stringy type discharge is quite normal. This is just normal body substance being 'crowded' out of the body by pressure on the body parts from the growing uterus. Just wipe it off her and do not be concerned.

Slightly pinkish tinged discharge is common but not desired. Try to notice if this is showing up just after she has urinated. Frequent urination could be causing a little irritation to the urinary tract resulting in slight bleeding. Check the temperature. And check to see if you can determine if it is coming from the urinary tract, or the (censored). This may not be easy to determine. One occurrence, or one day of happening, just means that you should keep a close eye on her and then if you see it happening more often, or heavier in amount, you should consult your veterinarian.

Yellowish discharge is cause for a little more concern. The yellowish color could represent a yeast problem somewhere, or it could indicate a problem getting ready to occur. Do a temperature check, then notify your vet of the discharge and the temperature reading.

Greenish colored, or muddy looking, or old blood looking, and usually a foul smelling discharge is cause for real concern. This kind of discharge tells you there is a pup on the way (if not out already). This is the 'tricky' one to handle. Most veterinarians will want you to bring the female into the clinic right away. Wait a while. If this sort of discharge happens somewhere between the fifth and ninth week of the gestation period, it is an abortion of one or more of the fetuses. Many times this is nature's way of solving an over crowded uterus problem. If the female is carrying too many pups and more room is needed to ensure some of them can survive until birth, nature will cast off what the female's body cannot safely manage for the rest of the gestation period. Even 'Mother Nature' can be fooled on occasion, and one or two fetuses may abort on more than one occasion (same as with humans). If you notice this type of discharge, notify your veterinarian, but my advice is to NOT disturb the female any more than is absolutely necessary. Do not risk the loss of ALL the pups by getting the female upset and taking her anywhere. Keep her as calm and quiet as possible, and wait a while.

Check her temperature and as long as it remains normal, then do not be overly concerned. A rise in temperature to 'fever' level (103 or above) means she is in trouble internally and this is when you must get her professional help. A drop in temperature to 100 degrees or lower means she may be aborting another one. This is a hard practice for veterinarians, from the worst to the best, because it is their job to save the female and most will want her in their clinic, so they can go 'by the books'. Some will suggest a 'cleaning out' of the uterus, some will suggest a hysterectomy, and almost all will want to do x-rays and other tests, and they almost all will want to treat the female with antibiotics. My advice is NO, not quite yet anyway. No until it is determined that all the fetuses are lost, or will be lost, and it is the only thing that will save the female's life. Once the female appears back to normal, but still pregnant, and she has drunk some water, perhaps eaten a little, and urinates and maybe has a bowel movement, she will probably just want a good nap.

If this greenish discharge appears any time during the ninth week, then notify your veterinarian immediately and prepare for the c-section. This means the pups are breaking away from the uterus and on their way out to be born. No need to check her temperature at this point because she is going to have the pups very soon with or without human help.

4: Diarrhea: As annoying as this condition is, it does happen to some of the pregnant females. Usually diarrhea occurs after eating something too rich for the stomach to digest properly. Stress and illness both can be causes too. It must be controlled as soon as possible to prevent dehydration of the body. Control first, then determine the cause. For control it is safe to give a pregnant female a human remedy such as Kaopectate. When using Kaopectate (plain, liquid form), I give mine approximately 20 millimeters after each bout of the diarrhea. Usually one dose will be enough, but if you have gotten to more than three doses in a twenty four hour period of time, then consult your veterinarian. Diarrhea, or very loose stools, on the due date indicates simply that the body is cleaning itself out and preparing for the birth. Call your vet.

5: Uncontrolled Head Shakes: This will be noticed by an uncontrollable shaking of the head, much like a palsy problem. No one seems to know why some females will have this prior to, or right after, whelping, but it must be due to some sort of chemical imbalance, or low blood sugar, or to stress. I have found that a sugar cube, or a cookie, or a slice of sandwich cheese will take care of the problem.

6: Inverted Nipples: The time to tend to inverted nipples is 'prior' to the birth of the pups. Have them ready for nursing before the pups get to them. The pups are going to try to nurse an inverted nipple regardless of its condition. Get a bowl of clean, warm water and a soft cloth or gauze pad, then massage the inverted nipple out, and gently hold it out for a few minutes. You most likely will find a paste type buildup in under the nipple and this should be gently washed clean. By cleaning the nipple prior to the birth of the pups, the female will not resent you messing with it after it is tender due to nursing attempts. Do not apply any creams or other agents, just clean it at least two or three times a day after the seventh week of the pregnancy.

7: The Nipple Area: No need to do much here except keep clean. Do check for any long hairs around the nipples, and gently clip these away with rounded point scissors. Some vets will shave the nipple area when prepping for the c-section, some will not. Easy enough for you to clip longer hairs while you are petting her. The body will naturally shed most of the hairs away from the nipples anyway.

8: Ears: Clean and treat the female's ears prior to the pups being born. Newborn pups have closed ears until around their fourteenth day of life, then their ears open and they are very tender. You would never want a newborn puppy to contact ear mites from its mom, nor any other ear problem from her. Even if the mom was trouble free when she was bred, there is always the possibility that she has picked up something during her pregnancy.

9: Toenails: Do not risk a puppy being 'stabbed' by a long toenail on its mom. If you cannot keep the nails trimmed blunt and short during the pregnancy, the vet can take care of this quickly during the c-section procedure. Be sure to remind the vet that this will need to be done.

10: Mental Health: A pregnant Bulldog is much the same as a pregnant human. She will have her good days, and she will have her bad ones. Just keeping her as stress free as possible will work best. A safe and secure place for her to 'nest' and feel comfortable is a must. It is best to keep all other pets away from her, and out of sight, after the seventh week begins. Nature will help her abort the pups if she feels threatened in any way, depending on the personality of your female. Introduce all your 'whelping equipment' (baby scales, piles of blankets and towels, stuffed animals, etc.) to her prior to her due date, letting her sniff and investigate. This is so she does not get home after the c-section and with her precious babes, and then see you approaching the whelping box with something as monstrous looking as a set of baby scales.

*** Normal bulldog temperature should read between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees. Below 100 readings could indicate a bowel obstruction such as the need to eliminate a stool (or if pregnant, the possibility of pups being in the birth canal in preparation for birth). A temperature of 103 and higher, indicates an illness due to either an infection, or stress. Use a digital rectal thermometer, and double check the reading by taking the temp a second, and even a third time, if the reading appears abnormal - high or low, or if you feel the first normal reading may not be quite right. Always apply just a dab of vaseline to the tip of the thermometer for ease in inserting it. And be sure you wipe it clean afterwards.


PREPARE FOR THE BIRTH OF YOUR BULLDOG PUPPIES AT LEAST TEN DAYS BEFORE THEIR DUE DATE


1. WHELPING BOX - Let your female get used to sleeping in the whelping box as soon as possible. Put down a pad of some sort - I take a twin size ‘egg crate’ mattress pad, cut it in half, and use this. Then I place a blanket on top of the pad, then a large size heating pad, then an all cotton flannel sheet.

2. EXTRA BLANKETS AND SHEETS - The bedding in the whelping box will need to be changed at least once or twice a day. Puppies, even newborns, have little sharp nails that can snag in a towel or blanket, so I use all cotton flannel sheets to cover the blankets.

3. HEATING PADS - At least two of the larger sized ones. One in the whelping box, and one in the ‘puppy crate’. Heating pads are always kept on LOW temperature setting. Never use a higher heat setting. Pups need the heat to keep their lower intestines working, plus to stay warm, but too much heat can lead to their deaths.

4. SMALL PUPPY SIZE CRATE - To allow the pups a safe place to sleep while mom is resting for an hour or two between feedings. In this crate place a heating pad set on LOW temp setting and cover with a receiving blanket or safe cloth. The mom will appreciate this as much as you will.

5. VAPORIZER - We have found that a vaporizer in the room with the pups makes breathing much easier for them. They have teensy little nostrils (nares) and need all the help they can get.

6. BABY BOTTLES - Have at least two of the four ounce size with measurements in CC. A one pound puppy will require 60 CC of milk in each 24-hour period should it become necessary for you to feed (when mom cannot).

7. BOTTLE NIPPLES - I have found the newborn size (0 to 3 months) or the ‘preemie’ baby size to work best the first day or so, then as the pup grows, go to the regular size nipple. Latex nipples are found to be more readily accepted than the other kinds.

8. FORMULA - There are several types available, even home concocted formulas, but the easiest, and a proven safe one, is Esbilac liquid. You can order a case of this from your wholesale pet supplies catalog. It is always a good idea to have at least a few cans on hand just in case of an emergency. It will not be wasted since you can use it when you start weaning the pups.

9. BABY SCALES - Keep a written record, from birth through six weeks, of the pups weight and progress. You can expect the puppy to lose an ounce or two during the first twenty four hours, but after that it should gain steadily. Not gaining, or losing, is a sign of trouble.

10. NASAL ASPIRATOR - To remove nasal congestion from nursing too fast, or whatever. Purchase the small bulb type made for a baby.

11. FINGERNAIL CLIPPERS - The small ones made for human babies work best in the beginning. You will notice the pups' little nails growing out into a curved, hook like, way. Clip only these hooks to prevent nails being snagged on a blanket, etc. A snagged nail can lead to a blood infection.

12. COTTON BALLS, TISSUES, AND PAPER TOWELS - It will be necessary for you to clean mom daily since she will have a discharge for a few weeks, plus you will need to clean the pups continuously. If mom refuses to do ‘diaper changing (licking)’, you will need to see that each puppy empties its bladder and bowels regularly. I simulate the licking process by dipping a cotton ball into warm water and gently massaging the puppy’s lower tummy area and the hind end to make it urinate and defecate. A lot of bulldog moms will have no part of this job.

13. EARSCOPE - This little lighted, small tipped, and magnifying instrument will be used time and time again. It will make it much easier to peer into a tiny pup's mouth to check palate, or into their ears later, or into any other hard to see place.

14. EMERGENCY & ROUTINE SUPPLIES NEEDED - It is best to be prepared for any and all emergencies. When the need arises, it may be too late to go shopping. These are inexpensive, and life saving:

a. Amoxy-drops: antibiotic made for puppies that you need to get from your veterinarian prior to, or on the day of delivery.

b. Nemex 2: a couple bottles to deworm the puppies at three weeks and you must deworm mom too. Get from your vet, or order from pet catalog.

c. Milk of Magnesia: just incase the pups get diarrhea. Get liquid, plain flavor.

d. Pediatric STAT: a high calorie nutrient supplement to feed a weak puppy. It has saved a couple of ours from dying. Get from vet, or pet supply catalog.

e. Kaopectate: keep on hand for the mom if she gets diarrhea, which is a common occurrence after they have had a litter. Unflavored liquid or tablets.

f. Simethecon Drops: the ‘gas’ drops for colicky babes, or pups having tummies distended from too much gas.

g. Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly): to put on puppy if it develops irritated behind.

Just in case you do not make it to the vet in time for the delivery, and have deliver pups yourself, you will need clean pair of scissors, some plain white kite twine, quite a few clean, white cloths (baby diapers work best).

You will need to prepare a box or basket to bring your newborns home after the delivery. A picnic basket works nice for this because it has the handle to carry on top. Any fair size box will do. The pups will need to be kept warm continuously. I use the ‘lava packs’ that you put into a microwave to heat, and these hold heat well for about three hours. Two liter soda bottles work good too. Fill the bottles with hot water and wrap in a towel. This can be done at the vet’s office. Baby receiving blankets for cushioning work best in the box since they can be folded to the appropriate size to fit.



LABOR ! ? ! ? IS IT TIME?

How do I know when to go for the C-section?

One week prior to the due date, start checking your female’s temperature. A digital, rectal thermometer should be used. Be sure it has a fresh battery and is reading correctly. Keep a written record of each temperature check, noting the date and time of day. The first couple of days, you will need to check her temp twice a day - in the morning, after her bowel movement, and in the evening after her bowel movement.

A healthy dog’s temperature should read between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees. A dog with full bowels will register a lower temperature until the bowels are emptied. A dog with a temperature of above 102.5 is displaying signs of an infection. Call your veterinarian immediately.

A female bulldog will show signs of ‘getting her milk’ about five days before her delivery date. She may also have a white mucous discharge. This is normal, and a sign of the pressure the unborn pups are now putting upon her lower body organs. If you see a greenish (sometimes blood tinged) discharge, call your veterinarian immediately.

Three days before her first due date, start checking her temperature four times a day. Two days before check it five or six times during the day, and one day before, check it every couple of hours. When you notice the temperature falling lower, it is coming closer to time to go to the vet for the c-section. Once the temperature drops to 99.5 degrees, or lower, she is in impending labor. CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY - night or day, you cannot wait. Owners who try to wait until morning, or wait until Monday (if on a weekend the temp falls) are just asking for trouble. The veterinarian is going to be much nicer to you at 7 p.m. in the evening, than he will be at 3 a.m. in the morning.

Temp below 99.5, call the vet, turn the heating pad on, get the baby basket ready, put expectant mom in the car, and go for it. Take towels, blankets, scissors, kite string, and second person to help, just in case puppies start coming while you are on your way to the vet.

A few more "tips"

Make sure your vet plans to use the quick recovery gas anesthetic called Isoflouril. This makes mom’s recovery much quicker, and does not seem to deter the babies.

Warn your vet prior to the C-section that in no way is he/she allowed to give your female a shot of penicillin after the delivery, just to be on the ‘safe side’. This shot of antibiotic will go straight to moms milk supply and kill your puppies.

Just as soon as your female wakes up, and can stand up, after the delivery, take her and the puppies home. NEVER leave her at the vet clinic overnight for recovery. This is too emotional on the female and too risky for the pups. Sick dogs are at the vet clinic over night. This is where you may pick up diseases. Get your babes home pronto!

wow a complete info,,
nice sir,,

lemuel0909 wrote:

wow a complete info,,
nice sir,,

thanks sir i hope makatulong napakaselan kasi ng breed na yan..

nakatulong po ng malaki yan sir,,

kahit wala akong eb,,haha,,

maaapply sa iba po na dogs yan,,