[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Main Category:
Aquatic/Land
Sub Category:
Frogs
Care Sheet Submitted By:
MiniMeatball
Years Experience:
3 to 5 Years (others can live 6 years above)
Species:
Cranwell's Horned Frogs(Pacman)
Sexing and Characteristics:
Pacman frogs are quite large when adults, and can reach around 6-7 inches in length (15-17 cm), although males tend to be quite a bit smaller than females. They are generally about as wide as they are long, so are quite hefty for a frog.
Male's call (sometimes too often) and will sometimes develop a black "beard" which is on the lower jaw where there is normally a white coloration there will be very prominent black dots. Females grow considerably larger and lack the Jaw Dots. Sometimes they have them but if they do they are very faint.
Mostly Active During:
Both (I think at night)
Substrate and Water Needs:
Depending on how humid your tank is, the frog might spend much of its time in its water dish, so providing plants around the dish will help your frog feel secure. The water dish should also be in a warmer part of the cage. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to sit in and make sure the water is shallow enough that the frogs nostrils are out of the water.
As for substrate A bottom layer of herp soil (bed-a-beast and things there of) with a top layer of moss is sufficient. Make sure your pacman can submerge COMPLETELY. Other bedding options are bark chips(I’m not a fan of this), paper towels and coconut husk.
Lighting and UVB:
Overhead incandescent bulbs can be too drying (although a red incandescent could be used if supplemental heat is needed at colder times) I use a night time bulb for my pacman and i have it on an auto timer to go on and of at different times through the night.A 12 hour light - 12 hour dark cycle can be provided. The use of full spectrum lighting for amphibians is somewhat controversial but probably isn't strictly necessary if a balanced diet is provided. The tank should be away from direct sunlight, to prevent overheating and cooking the frogs.
Temperatures and Humidity:
The temperature should be kept around 82 F (28 C) during the day, dropping to around 78 F (25 C) at night. During winter i keep the tank a little cooler to simulate changing seasons.Heating is best supplied by an under tank heater.
Heating and Equipment:
Once again an under tank heater will be just fine. Also there is some controversy over where to put the under tank heater. I put mine on the side where the water is because it gets cold here and i cant imagine he would want a freezing bath, but you use your best judgment when it comes to placement. I have also heard people putting the Heater on the side of the tank. I have never tried this but its always an option.
Caging Provided:
Tank size should be 10 gallon +, for babies you can uses a 5.5 gall tank but when they get 3inches or more its better to switch to a 10. They don't tend to move much but as i always say the more room the better. Tank should be Longer then it is tall but put strong plants in the tank with them because sometimes they will venture up! I found one of my pacmans in the top of his plant one day! So Lots of leafy plants. Live or fake it doesn't matter. Fake are stronger and you don't have to water them. Real look better. You choose what you feel would be best suited.
Diet:
Carnivorous
Description of Diet:
When baby's( under 2 inches) pacman frogs should be fed one or two crickets every day. If you feed baby's meal-worms make sure they are on the smaller side and only feed them meal-worms one times a week, and only one at a time.
When 2-3 inches or Feed them 4 crickets every other day
when 5 in + feed them as much as they can eat in 5 min (usually like 10) every 2-3 days. At this size you Can also give them different types of food. Examples are Pinkie mice,super worms, Rosie fish, silk worms, worms in general i guess.
Some people feed mice to large pacmans but i try to stay away from things that can potentially harm my pacman. A live mouse if fed to a pacman can end very badly.Bones from mice can also cause impactions.
note: Pacman frogs eat EVERYTHING that moves. Even fingers so be careful.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
Use a calcium supplement every time you feed when the pacman is little(quarter size). This helps with bone development because pacmans tend to grow very fast when young and slow when they are older. This is why you need to make sure they get plenty of calcium to help keep their bones strong or else serious problems can occur down the road.. When the pacman gets a little older switch every other day with the powder.
Maintenance:
These frogs are low maintenance but keep in mind the cage should be picked EVERY TIME YOU SEE POO! Change the water every day. Every week take every thing out and clean it with Zoo meds " wipe out" or a bleach solution (1 part bleach for 10 parts water). The soil should be mixed up to prevent the rotting soil smell. Complete Bedding changes should be every other week.
Some Words on this Species:
Pacman frogs have a reputation for being somewhat aggressive, which is largely undeserved. They have teeth so be careful. If they bit you its not there fault, you put your hand in bite range not them.
Pacman frogs are native to South America, and are terrestrial in nature. In fact, they are very poor swimmers and care must be taken that they do not drown in their water bowls.
Pacman are very beautiful creatures (well to some) and will give you 7 years + of froggie love. ( not recommended to give pacmans hugs)
Credits to repticzone.com
Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:40 pm
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