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| | Scorpion Caresheet | |
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Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:18 pm | |
| Post Care sheets only. Comments will be automatically deleted. Thanks.
PAGE I
Hadrurus arizonensis Hadogenes sp. Centruroides vittatus Centruroides margaritatus Pandinus cavimanus Mesobuthus martensii Vaejovis spinigerus Opistophthalmus sp. Liocheles australasiae Isometrus maculatus Chaerilus celebensis Rhopalurus junceus Lychas Mucronatus Liocheles waigiensis
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Heterometrus swammerdami Hottentotta hottentotta Centruroides vittatus Centruroides gracilis Babycurus jacksoni Pandinus imperator Heterometrus sp. Androctonus amoreuxi Androctonus bicolor Androctonus australis Leiurus quinquestriatus Smeringurus mesaensis Parabuthus liosoma Parabuthus transvaalicus Parabuthus mossambicensis Mesobuthus gibbosus Scorpio maurus palmatus Tityus stigmurus confluenciata Opistacanthus apser Ophistothalmus walberghi
PAGE III
Centruroides hentzi Hadogenes troglodytes Hottentotta judaicus Tityus magnimanus Tityus serrulatus Uroctonus mordax Vaejovis carolinianus Babycurus gigas
Last edited by Tattoo on Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:57 pm; edited 14 times in total | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:59 pm | |
| Hadrurus arizonensis, Desert Hairy Scorpion, Giant Desert Hairy [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Substrate: a few inches sand that has been dampened and left to dry under a heat lamp for a few days. Humidity: low to moderate - around 50 - 55%. No water dish needed, as this is a desert species, and it has adapted in a way that allows it to receive all of its water needs from its prey. Temperature: 80º to 90º Fahrenheit Decor: whatever is aesthetically pleasing to the keeper (see below) Preferred hiding spot: burrows, not much of a pet hole in my experience, they come out around 65% of the time (yes I did the math) Communal: not sure, I've only ever kept one.(*added by abyss* Not communal however some have kept them in large enclosure with little to no problems. Best success is if they are all adults) Temperment: mildly agro, they won't try to snuff you out, but they'll give a nasty nip or sting. Venom: mild. non lethal, but you don't want it to ever happen again. Like a very, very angry hornet sting. They aren't as docile as an emperor but not as agro as a heterometrus, somewhere in the middle (leaning more towards heterometrus). They're actually a little easier to keep than the golden standard P. imperator. In fact, I'm getting one for my Girlfriend to get her into the hobby! -- Don't worry if it stops eating. Scorps have slow metabolisms and sometimes go months without eating for no real reason. -- A new scorp likes to explore its habitat. My emperors wandered around lots at night when I first got them (they also took about a week to start a burrow). So, attempts to climb the glass are nothing to worry about. -- "A scorp that stays in its burrow is a happy scorp." 'Nuff said. If you like seeing your scorpions, make a "starter burrow" against the side of the tank. They will most likely hang out there and you can see them while they feel secure and at home. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:03 pm | |
| Hadogenes spp. (Flat-Rock Scorpions) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Substrate: dry coco fiber / sand mix Humidity: low; no water dish is necessary and occasional misting will suffice for moisture Temperature: Hot (80s-90s Fahrenheit) Decor: crevice-like hiding spots (stacked slate pieces are ideal) Preferred hiding spot: in small crevices, sometimes digging out a shallow scrape underneath a rock (does not burrow) Communal: generally not, though some people have reported success if plenty of hides and prey are available Temperament: in my experience, Hadogenes are shy, but defensive when disturbed Venom: incredibly weak (LD50 reported at 1800 mg venom / kg body mass) This genus is native to southern Africa, and as such like it dry and toasty. They are among the slowest-growing scorpions, and as such can easily go for long periods without food. Small crevices are ideal hiding places considering their flattened body shape. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:12 pm | |
| Centruroides vittatus (Striped Bark Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Centruroides Vittatus is also called the striped bark scorpion, or Texas bark scorpion, Vittatus means striped or banded in latin. It is the most common scorpion in the United States found in the inner southwest states, north up to souther Illinois and Missouri and East to the state of Florida and south into Northern Mexico. There are two morphs, Mesic and Xeric(Xeric -dryer , Mesic- humid). This specie is highly adaptable which is why it is very common. It has been known to withstand sub-zero temperatures. Enclosure: These guys can be densely packed. I had 13 in a 10 gallon and still had enough space to fit more. A 2.5 gallon critter tank is plenty for one as long as they have vertical shards of bark to stay on since they are considered semi-aeroboral. Hide: One of the reasons these scorpions(or any bark scorpion) is neat, is the fact that they rest on bark which can make them visible all the time. They are not burrowers. They usually stay on the dark side of the bark. The most cormftable place for them is cracks in between the wood, they squeeze in and are almost impossible to get out. So in conclusion, use a piece of wood with crevices in it so they can hang on to, or crawl into. Humidity: Humidity isn't much of a concern for these guys. 60-75% would be their preference, but these guys are very resistant and can tolerate humidity much drier, or much wetter. Always have a bottlecap of water though, or mist once to twice a week. Temperature: Their preference is 75-85F. But as stated before, they do live in colder climates and can survive sub-zero temperatures when needed(This is something best left to those in the wild.) I keep mine at room temperature, no special heat needed. My room got to the high 50's a few times at night in winter and to the high 90's in summer to give you an idea. Substrate: I use a mixture of sand and peat moss, or just peat moss. I used only sand only for a few months, but I was recommended peat moss. These guys only use the substrate at night when they walk around, so it really isn't as important as it is to other scorpions. Communal: These are number one when it comes to communal scorpions. Like all scorpions though, there is always a risk of cannablism after a recent molt, so it's always best to keep only adults together. Also, they can be kept together with Centruroides Sculpturus. it is said that any centruroides can be kept together and that only their temperature/humidity needs are what keeps it from happening. So my guess is that they can be kept with the centruroides from Mexico since they live in similar condtitions. Venom Potency: Never heard of recorded deaths from this scorpion. Sting is probably a tad more painful then a bee sting. Ratng is given is usually 2/5. Sexing: Like all centruroides, the female has a fatter shorter metasoma(tail) The male has a longer, skinnier, metasoma. Other information: -All instar scorpions will need a piece of bark so they can properly molt. Make sure it is not perfectly vertical(90 degrees) for they need to hang upside down. 45 degree angle and up is best. -Second instars are very small and will need fruit flys. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:33 pm | |
| Centruroides margaritatus (Central American Bark Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Bark Scorpions are usually small, agile, and very fast scorpions. There are many species in the genus Centruroides. These scorpions can hide in and escape from very small spaces. They climb well and some species can be found in buildings. Centruroides margaritatus is not deadly but has a painful sting that causes swelling and tingling (LD50 59.9 mg/kg). This species is about 5 to 8 cm long including the tail, and is native to Central and South America (the northern part of South America from what I know). Range: Central America (also introduced to Florida) Type: Arborial Communal: In small numbers Full Grown Size: 3-4"/8-11cm Growth Rate: Medium Temperature: 80-85F (23-26C) Humidity: 70-80% Temperment: Semi Aggressive Speed: Medium Venom: 2 Diet: Young can eat Pinhead crickets, small roaches, meal worms. Adults can eat large crickets, roaches, super worms. Housing: Adults large critter keeper, 5 gallon tank, or rubbermaid type container. Young can live in small critter keepers or large deli cups Substrate Depth/Type: 6-8" of sand with rocks or hides. Sand should be wet down, packed and allowed to dry to provide a stable burrowing substrait More info: This species loves to climb and will often capture pray and live upside down in branches. Its natural habitates include under barks, crooks of limbs, and stones in tropical forests. In places where this species is introduced, it can be found inside houses, under stones and in piles of wood, debris and sacs, in both indoors & outdoors. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:36 pm | |
| Pandinus cavimanus (Tanzanian Redclawed Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Pandinus cavimanus also called a Tanzanian Redclaw scorpion (along with a variety of other names) is a tropical scorpion with care similar to P imperator. The only cases of mistaken identity with this scorpion is with the P imperator but the differences are noticeable to the naked eye. Do not be fooled by their coloration. Some P imperators may have a reddish hue in the same way some P cavimanus have a blackish hue. The quickest way I've determined to tell the difference is the coloration of the telson. My P cavimanus's telson is uniform with the rest of it's body. Also the shape of the chela seems to be bulkier and more indented. Enclosure: 5+ Gallons for a single individual with at least 10 for two or more. Hide: Something they can bury beneath. I use a piece of wood from the pet store shaped like a cave with no bottom. I've found this species prefers to burrow down compared to my emperors which bury across. This could be a desire for more humidity which I have not tested. Humidity: High ~75-80%. Keep the substrate moist but not sopping wet. The rule applies that if you wring the substrate it should not drip water. Keep a large water bowl for drinking and bathing purposes. Temperature: Slightly lower than P imperator. Mine does fine at room temperature (A little over 72F). Substrate: Some form of water retentive "dirt". I only have experience with cocofiber so I cannot say any alternatives. This must be at least 6 inches for an adult scorpion as they will very quickly become "pet holes". Communal: Yes. I have heard sources claim they are extremely cannibalistic however I have never seen a problem in a well kept enclosure. I cannot say from personal experience as I only keep one but they appear to be as communal as P imperator. I will not recommend a cross-species enclosure with this species simply because their main defensive weapons (their claws) are far bulkier and further developed when compared to my P imperators. Venom Potency: Very low. Not only is the venom of this species considered less potent than the P imperator, it is far less likely to strike. Only once have I seen a strike from mine and that was after a good 20 seconds of prodding (Uncooperative for a move). For the most part they lunge with their claws out-stretched at an disturbance. I receive a threat display any time I look into the enclosure. This is a more aggressive species. Sexing: Sexing is similar to P imperator and Heterometrus sp. A quick glance at the pectines and genital opercula reveal the sex. Also from information received from another on the boards, the male has a tiny "tooth" on the movable finger. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:03 pm | |
| Mesobuthus martensii (Chinese Armortailed Scorpion, Manchurian Scorpion, Chinese Golden Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Range: China Type: Opportunistic Burrower Communal: Yes Full Grown Size: 3" Growth Rate: Medium Temperature: 80-85F (26-29C) Humidity: 50-60% Temperment: Semi Aggressive Speed: Medium Venom: 3 Diet: Young can eat Pinhead crickets, small roaches, meal worms. Adults can eat large crickets, roaches, super worms. Housing: Adults medium critter keeper, 2 gallon tank, or rubbermaid type container. Young can live in small critter keepers or large deli cups Substrate Depth/Type: 2-3" of peat/sand mix with rocks or hides. Pack down substrate and use flat rocks for them to create hides under More info: This species is fairly communal, if provided with enough hiding spaces. A good rule of 1 scorpion per gallon of tank space is ideal. They also breed quite readily and begining to be a very common scorpion in the trade. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:06 pm | |
| Vaejovis spinigerus (Stripe Tailed Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Range: Arizona, California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico Type: Opportunistic Burrower Communal: In small numbers Full Grown Size: 2" Growth Rate: Medium Temperature: 85-90F (29-32C) Humidity: 50% Temperment: Nervous/Aggressive Speed: Medium Venom: 2 Diet: Young can eat Pinhead crickets, small roaches, meal worms. Adults can eat large crickets, roaches, super worms. Housing: Adults large critter keeper, 5 gallon tank, or rubbermaid type container. Young can live in small critter keepers or large deli cups Substrate Depth/Type: 3-4" of sand with rocks or hides. More info: This, unfortunately, isn't very popular in the hobby. It is a very fun scorpion, always active. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:15 pm | |
| Opistophthalmus sp. (Tri-Color Burrowing Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]There are over 59 species of Opistophthalmus, which are native to southern Africa. Although not especially dangerous, they have an aggressive temperament and will sting at the slightest provocation. These scorpions range from 6 to 11 cm in length (Leeming 2006) and makes deep burrows, hence the common name. They belong to the same family as the popular emperor scorpion (Pandinus imperator). Captive Requirements Housing: 6 to 10 L cage for large adults Communal: No Diet: Crickets, cockroaches Substrate: 10 cm of soil or sand mixture Decor: Rocks, driftwood, bark, water dish Temperature: 26.7° C (80° F) Humidity: Low Temperament: Defensive, will sting Considerations: Look, don't touch! | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:34 pm | |
| Liocheles australasiae (Dwarf Wood Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Claws: Strong pedipalps Housing: Minimum 3 gallon glass tank with 3 inches of substrate Temperature: 24-28°C (75.2-82.4°F) Humidity: 70-80% Birth Size: 20-25 Liocheles australasiae can be found occupying spaces under rocks, logs, down in any cracks in the earth where the humidity is high and it can tolerate quite wet conditions. Being a scorpion that has evolved to occupy cracks in rocks and other tight places has resulted in the scorpion becoming quite dorso-ventrally flattened, which means they somewhat mimic a crab with similar rapid sideways movements. They have been found inside logs that are buried in mud; they love wet conditions and are therefore very tolerant to potential fungal problems in captivity. Habitat appears to be variable as long as typical rainfall is above 550mm and temperatures above 15°C. Some recent information seems to suggest that they are more prevalent in higher rainfall areas (1000mm). Most common habitats are rock crevices, between rocks and the soil in shallow scrapes or rock crevices covered in rotting leaf matter but they may also be found beneath bark on fallen rotting logs and under rotting, solidifying leaf matter - usually on rock surfaces. Their flattened body shape is ideal for these locations. Venom This species has mild venom according to people contacted. It will rarely sting, and usually defends itself by using their powerful claws. Breeding Expect a gestation period of 12-18 months, depending on ambient temperature during this period of time, higher temperatures will give rise to a quicker gestation. 18-26 live born young will emerge over a few hours and gradually clamber onto the mother's back. There is no embryonic sac with this species as they display the more recent evolutionary form of embryonic development known as kaitoikogenic (at home) development. As first instars they will remain on mothers back for a number of weeks before shedding the membranous exoskeleton and become second instars after which they will gradually leave the mother to disperse. When scorpions first shed their skins they are vulnerable to predators and physical damage until the new skin hardens and turns brown/black. Captive birth is quite common but it would appear that in these cases, most females are gravid when caught. Males are rarer than females so most of those kept in captivity are females. Survival rate appears to be highly variable. Most people report minimal if any cannibalism. A number of people have reported young staying close to, and inter-reacting with the mother for up to two months. However correct humidity (high) and temperatures of 20-30°C (68-86°F) are also of upmost importance. Failure to keep the humidity high and temperatures correct will result in incomplete molting to 2nd instar. Moult to 2nd Instar is approx 28 days. It will be your choice to remove any young scorpions or leave them in the big tank. If you wish to move them to a similar system away from the adults, then you will need to remove the gravid female before she gives birth or while the young are still on her back as once they disperse you’ll never find them all without completely destroying the tanks habitat. You can either choose to keep each young scorpion in a separate small sealed container or set up another false bottom tank to keep some or all of them in.
Last edited by Tattoo on Sat Feb 27, 2010 3:12 am; edited 2 times in total | |
| | | gudb0i Senior Member
Posts : 167 nueva ecija Join date : 2010-09-16
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:12 pm | |
| Isometrus maculatus Lesser Brown Scorpion [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Distribution: Philippines, Hawaii, Australia, and other areas with tropical climates Housing: Plastic storage containers, aquariums, etc. The young are best housed individually in vials or deli containers with a vertical piece of bark and several small holes for ventilation. The young will use this bark to aid with molting and also to get away from the substrate if it becomes too moist. A water dish does not need to be provided for the juveniles. If the juveniles are fed regularly, they will obtain enough moisture from their prey and they may also obtain additional moisture when the substrate is moistened. The adults can be housed together, if fed regularly, in plastic storage boxes with holes drilled in them or in aquariums. A water dish should be provided for the adults to drink from. Also, there should be an ample number of hides, including some vertical ones for them to climb on. Substrate: Peat moss or coco fiber Place 1-3 in. or 2.5-7.5 cm of peat moss or coco fiber on the bottom of the enclosure and keep one-half of the enclosures substrate moist. When the substrate begins to dry out remoisten it. Temperature: 70-90°F or 21-32°C Maintain the temperature at 70-90°F or 21-32°C. The higher the temperature (within this range) the faster the scorpions will grow, breed, and give birth. Humidity: 60-75% Diet: Crickets or roaches Feed the scorpions crickets or roaches that are smaller than the scorpion itself. Feed the adults once every week and the juveniles twice weekly. Remove prey if it has not been eaten within 24 hours and also remove any remains of eaten prey, such as legs, wings, etc. If the remains are left for an extended period of time an infestation of mites may occur. Reproduction: Sexual Sexing: Males have longer, more slender metasomas and pedipalps than females. Venom level: 2 of 5 The venom toxicity of this scorpion is mild to moderate. When placed on a scale from 1-5, where 1 is mildly toxic venom and 5 is extremely toxic venom, it is a 2. | |
| | | gudb0i Senior Member
Posts : 167 nueva ecija Join date : 2010-09-16
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:20 pm | |
| Chaerilus celebensis Philippine Speckled Scorpion [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Family : Chaerilidae Genus: Chaerilus Range: this species is found in South and Southeast Asia. Venom level: 1 This species is not considered to be dangerous! Captive Care: day time 78-85 night time temps 72-75F are the temps i keep them at, this is a sub-tropical species that does best in a humid environment, so the temps should be 65-85.F and humidity %60 -% 70. they are typically found in forests within or under rotting logs, between loose tree roots and in damp leaf litter. Housing: For adults: I use sterlite boxes "5" W x "6" L x "5" H. i just like to give them a little extra room, but enclosures this large are not needed. I use 2 oz. plastic deli cups, with a shallow layer of moist coco bedding for substrate, as with the adults i add a few small clumps of sphagnum moss, for my specimens to hide in. Cannibalism has been reported for this species as well as my own observation, once i put a male and female together and she had killed and eaten the male, and i had tried to keep a couple juveniles together and they killed and ate each other as well, so its best not to house more than one single specimen in an enclosure. Adult size: this species rarely attains adult lengths greater than (1.5 inches), the 2nd instars are only about 3 - 4 mm. total lengths, a 3rd instars will be double that of the 2nd instars being about 6 - 7mm, this is a very small species Substrate: i use moist coco bedding for substrate, with small clumps of sphagnum moss, which i place in 1 or 2 corners of the enclosures for hides, ( they like it ). Food: small crickets / termites / and other small insects Misting: i mist these 3 times a week to keep humidity levels up. Gestation period: 3 1/2 - 4 1/2 months i had one give birth and it took 115 days. Sexing: males will have slightly different shaped chelae than the females, males are smaller and thinner bodied than the females, females will have more of a round chelae, the males chelae will be more angular shaped. the first pectine teeth ( left & right ) on females will be enlarged, so it can be tricky to sex Chaerilus celebensis since they are so small ! Pectine count: the pectine count for this species is, ( 4 teeth for females & 5 teeth for males ) i think its quite unusual that hey have so few pectine teeth, but this is a tiny species! Lifespan: 2 - 6 years Brood sizes: i believe there is a range from 18 to 40 with this species, but its a likely round about i have come up with. Additional information: i had one female give birth to a brood of 33 offspring, and it took 115 days ( 3 months 3 weeks & 4 days) between broods, they molt from 1st instar into 2nd instar between 4 & 6 days, i believe they reach adulthood between 5th instar & 6th instar, AGAIN THERE IS VERY LITTLE IS KNOWN REGARDING THIS SPECIES, and these are all my own observations of this species in captivity, my survival rate with the offspring has been 10 out of 10 to date. this species will also play dead when they feel a threat or touched by something, its quite odd but its another neat thing this species does playing dead. | |
| | | gudb0i Senior Member
Posts : 167 nueva ecija Join date : 2010-09-16
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:41 pm | |
| Rhopalurus junceus is a medium sized scorpion that is native to Cuba. These 3.5-4.5 inch Bark Scorpions are a beautiful reddish/orange color. It is safe to say these are one of the most desired specimens to add to any collection. Unfortunately, they have been rare in collections with the exception of a few hobbyists in Europe. Late in 2005 and early 2006 I was able to acquire 5 mid sized juveniles thru 3 different transactions. I acquired these specimens with the hopes of breeding and getting a nice captive population started here in the USA. They seem relatively easy to breed and the husbandry is near identicle to other tropical Bark Scorpion species such as Centruroides spp and Tityus spp. Housing adults should be done the very same as with Centruroides gracilis. For this I use plastic Sterlite or Rubbermade shoe boxes that can be purchased at practically any Dollar Store. It is important to drill several small holes around the sides of the box to provide some ventilation. For substrate, about 3 inches of slightly moist peat moss can be used. When the peat moss starts to get a little dry, I pour water directly on the substrate until about half of it is moist again. It is important not to get the substrate too moist. Also important is to add several pieces of wood, cork bark etc for hides and for them to be able to get off the moist substrate. Unlike several Tityus spp which seem to prefer to rest directly on moist substrate, R junceus seems to prefer resting between the stacks of wood. One of the more common mistakes a novice keeper will make is trying to house scorpions such as this in Kritter Keepers. The "open screen top" on a Kritter Keeper will allow the substrate to dry out very fast and not keep the humidity high enough. They seem to do well with temperatures at around 80F. While they may live at temps in the lower 70sF, they will grow and be much healthier when kept in the low 80sF. Only adults should be kept in groups as juveniles will often cannibalize a cage mate during molting. Adults will eat 1-3 medium crickets a week. Like males of many species, Rhopalurus junceus males seldom feed. Breeding is typical and rather straight forward. After I had my first pair to mature in August of 2006, I put them together in their own plastic shoe box. After about 30 minutes the male and female were courting. Oddly enough, I did not find a spermataphore until the next morning. It was obvious that they did not finish mating until I turned out the lights for the night. Determining the sex of the adults is easy to do. Like most scorpions, the males are much thinner and delicate looking than the more robust females. The chela (claws) of the males is more bulbous with the fingers being slightly curved. The male cannot close the fingers completely due to the curve. The females however have much thinner and straighter chela that can completely close their fingers together. I have also noted that the males are a lighter more orangeish color when compared to the darker red females. I know of no other way to determine the sex of this species and unfortunately the hobbyist will have to wait until adulthood in order to accurately sex them. In January of 2007 my wait was over. My female gave birth to 21 babies. Interestingly, it took two days for all the babies to be born. The only other time I have seen this happen was with a Heterometrus laoticus in 2005. While this number is low when compared to the reports of some European breeder's reports this is a start. About a week after giving birth I gently coaxed the female into a deli cup with moist peat. I do this with all my Bark Scorpion species as this makes capturing the babies much easier than if they were in the adult enclosure. After about 10 days the young molted into 2nd instars. Less than a week later the young started to disperse from the Mother's back. I then returned the female back to the adult enclosure. To house the young, I set up 50 Dram vials that can be purchased from Thornton Plastics. I filled roughly 1/3 with moist peat moss. In order for the young to molt properly it is important to provide a climb. In this case I leaned peaces of tree bark inside each vial. The young need to be kept separately until adult. This insures there will be no cannibalism and with the low numbers in the hobby each individual counts. The 2nd instar young are a decent size and feed voraciously on small crickets and small lobster roach nymphs. I feed them 2-3 times a week until they "plump up". The specimens I recieved were mid sized juveniles so I am not sure how many molts it takes for one to mature. Judging by the time it took for mine to mature I can safely assume that it takes over a year and probably closer to a year and a half. Although Rhopalurus junceus is a very rare scorpion in the hobby now, with this birth gives much hope that more and more hobbyists will be able to acquire this beautiful species in the not so distant future. At the time of this writing I have a different mated female that should be giving birth anytime and a fellow scorpion enthusiast has a mated pair as well. It should be noted that anyone getting this species in the future should try to breed them in order to keep a good number in the hobby as it is pretty safe to say that there will be no imports of this species anytime soon from Cuba. This is a really nice species worthy of any collection as they are impressive and beautiful to look at. I would like to give a warm thanks to my friends Alex Tietz, Tom van der Ende and Vincent Wisse. Their advice has been helpful over the past few years and I have benefited greatly. Rhopalurus junceus males are thinner than females with more bulbous chela. When adult the males chela looks like this. It will not close all the way since it is slightly curved. It is most likely built this way in order to court the females
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| | | gudb0i Senior Member
Posts : 167 nueva ecija Join date : 2010-09-16
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:52 pm | |
| Common Name: Chinese Swimming Scorpion Scientific Name: Lychas Mucronatus Type: Arboreal, but I have found them to be light burrowers - one of mine is digging under the log I have sticking out of the substrate and comes out when there is commotion. Growth Rate: Fast Size: 2" - 2.5" Venom: 3 Temperament: Medium Temp: 75-85 F Humidity: 75-80% Substrate: I use a mix of coco fiber and sand, it maintains humidity well. about 3" deep. give them some bark to climb on, cork bark works best as with any arboreal sp. I also have lava rocks and a small rock water dishes with about an inch of water in it. Housing: A 5gal tank is fine. I'm using Rubbermaid containers as temporary housing until I get off my bum and cut the Acrylite and make a shelf. Communal: Yes, for the most part - cannibalism can happen as juvies. they can co-habitate with mesobuthus martensii Notes: Gorgeous species. known to breed like rabbits even with scorplings still riding piggyback. they like to hide and allegedly like to soak in water (I have not witnessed them taking interest in soaking or swimming so I cannot attest to this) *I have been watching mine during feeding and it's a very interesting hunter. instead of looking for food or stalking it's food it hangs in wait and when the prey passes below it snags it up in it's pedipalps and in some cases I've witnessed it holding the prey alive until it's ready to eat it and then it stings it. I would say that these guys are fast as lightening. | |
| | | gudb0i Senior Member
Posts : 167 nueva ecija Join date : 2010-09-16
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:32 pm | |
| liocheles waigiensis Regions Found: Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Indonesia and Australia Class: Rainforest burrower Longevity: unknown Adult Scorpion Size: Temperament: Claws: Strong pedipalps Sting Potency: Liocheles waigiensis Housing Requirements Scorpion Housing: Minimum 3 gallon glass tank with 3 inches of substrate Temperature range: 20-30°C (68-86°F) Humidity range: 80-90% Special Requirements: There are no special requirements. Liocheles waigiensis Breeding Breeding Difficulty: Easy Birth Size: 20-25 Danger to Male: Minimal Liocheles waigiensis Diet A scorpions diet should consist mainly of livefood insects such as crickets , locust, butter worms , meal worms , superworms , houseflies and cockroaches . Recommended Pet Supplies for Liocheles waigiensis An appropriately sized vivarium /aquarium Substrate Heating equipment ie heat lamps, heat mats and thermostats Large shallow water dish Decorations and hiding places Livefood | |
| | | maister Grand Pet Master
Posts : 851 manila Join date : 2010-12-06
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:47 am | |
| Indian Giant Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus swammerdami) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Regions Found: Southern Asia and Malaysia Class: Terrestrial species Longevity: 5-8 years in captivity and 3-7 years in the wild. Adult Scorpion Size: 20+ cm Temperament: Aggressive Claws: Strong pedipalps Sting Potency: Not lethal to humans - comparitive to a bee sting Heterometrus swammerdami Housing Requirements Scorpion Housing: Minimum 6 gallon glass tank with 6-7cm (4 inches) of substrate such as peat-free compost covered with orchid bark chippings. Temperature range: 24-28°C (75.2-82.4°F) Humidity range: 60 - 80% Special Requirements: Suitable for groups and can be housed communally Heterometrus swammerdami Breeding Breeding Difficulty: Average to difficult Birth Size: Average of 12 Danger to Male: Low Heterometrus swammerdami Diet A scorpions diet should consist mainly of livefood insects such as crickets, locust, butter worms, meal worms, superworms, houseflies and cockroaches. Recommended Pet Supplies for Heterometrus swammerdami An appropriately sized vivarium/aquarium Substrate Heating equipment ie heat lamps, heat mats and thermostats Large shallow water dish Decorations and hiding places Livefood | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:25 pm | |
| Hottentotta hottentotta [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Distribution: Africa Housing: Plastic storage containers, aquariums, etc. The young are best housed individually in deli containers with several small holes in the top or sides of the container for ventilation. The adults can be housed together, if fed regularly, in plastic storage boxes with holes drilled in them or in aquariums. They should be provided with a water dish about every three weeks. Also there should be an ample number of hides in the enclosure. Substrate: Peat moss/ coco fiber and sand mixture Place 1-2 in. or 2.5-5 cm of a dry 40% peat moss/ coco fiber and 60% sand mixture on the bottom of the enclosure. Lightly mist a portion of the substrate every two weeks. Temperature: 70-90°F or 21-32°C Maintain the temperature at 70-90°F or 21-32°C. The higher the temperature (within this range) the faster the scorpions will grow, breed, and give birth. Humidity: 50-60% Diet: Crickets or roaches Feed the scorpions crickets or roaches that are smaller than the scorpion itself. Remove prey if it has not been eaten within 24 hours and also remove any remains of eaten prey, such as legs, wings, etc. Reproduction: Parthenogenetic Venom level: 3 of 5 The venom toxicity of this scorpion is moderate. When placed on a scale from 1-5, where 1 is mildly toxic venom and 5 is extremely toxic venom, it is a 3. Credits to theinverts
Last edited by Tattoo on Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:24 pm; edited 2 times in total | |
| | | y2kwarrior Senior Member
Posts : 245 r.papa/caloocan/calumpit bulacan Join date : 2010-11-30
| Subject: Striped Scorpion Sun May 22, 2011 7:14 pm | |
| [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Striped Scorpion Striped Bark Scorpion Family: Buthidae Centruroides vittatus An extremely small scorpion, an adult Striped Scorpion or Striped Bark Scorpion reaches only about an inch in total length!This small scorpion, the Striped Scorpion or Striped Bark Scorpion, is the most widespread scorpion in the United States. Though it won't take up much space and can be a great curiosity, the Striped Scorpion does not make a handleable pet. This small species has a powerful sting that often produces intense pain that lasts for several hours. Other than this pain, however, there are rarely any other medical complications. An interesting feature related to the native habitat of the Striped Scorpion is its ability to remain alive during extended periods of below freezing weather. Recent studies show that species capable of living through these conditions have a protein-like substance that allows them to survive by "trapping" ice crystals in their gut. Centruroides vittatus Photo © Animal-World: Courtesy Russ Gurley | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:54 pm | |
| Centruroides gracilis (Slenderbrown Bark Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]This scorpion is found in Florida, Central America and several islands in the Caribean. These are good climbers and are often found in tree bark and hollow trees. This is a communal species so small groups can be kept together as long as they are well fed. HOUSING They can be kept in the usual kritter keepers, sterlite boxes etc. Many keepers use tall tanks and lean cork bark against the sides for climbing. Be sure to use a good fitting top on the enclosure for these. SUBSTRATE Peat moss and/or potting soil about an inch or 2 deep is all that is needed since this species doesn't burrow. FEEDING Crickets,roaches or other small insects TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY 70-85F is fine. These scorps seem to do well in a slightly humid environment. Keep the subustrate slightly damp (not wet) and restrict the ventilation. I also let the water dish over flow some when I give mine water. VENOM TOXICITY The one found in Florida have mild venom (around 2) where as some from Cent America can be very toxic(around 4). Anytime you acquire one of these it is a good idea to ask where it came from. The ones from Florida are the best ones to get especially for a beginner. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:55 pm | |
| Babycurus jacksoni (Rusty Thick Tail) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]These neat little scorpions come from Tanzania and other parts of East Africa. They are a communal species so small groups can be kept together as long as they are well fed. They will attack large prey for their size which is 3-4 inches as adults. In the wild they can be found in tree bark and ground litter. They do not burrow but climb very well.They are very similar to the Centruroides spp of the New World. HOUSING They can be kept in the usual kritter keepers, aquariums etc. It is good to provide some verticle structure such as cork bark for them to climb. SUBSTRATE Peat moss and/or potting soil makes the best substrate. It is recommended that part of the substrate me moist and part be dry so they can choose the humidity they prefer. One can also let the water dish over flow some when watering. FEEDING The usual crickets, roaches etc. are fine for this scorpion. Don't let their size fool you. I have had them kill and eat crickets larger than they are. TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY Temps from 75-85 F are fine. This species in the wild experiences a very dry season and a wet season. Therefore some keep these as humid as Emperors while some keep them rather dry. As mentioned above, I like to give them a variety with a dry and a moist side and they appear to be doing well. Remember that it is a good idea to slightly increase humidity for any scorp when they are preparing to molt. VENOM TOXICITY Some places list these as medically significant while others do not. I am guessing they would be around a 2 on the scale. They might pack a wallop so it would be wise to not get stung by them (or any scorp for that matter) | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:57 pm | |
| Pandinus spp (Emperor Scorpion) and Heterometrus spp (Asian Forest Scorpion) This will work for any of the Pandinus or Heterometrus species. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Pandinus imperator There are many ways to do this but this is my preferred way. First of all Emperors are a tropical scorp from West Africa therefore they prefer hot and humid conditions. I keep mine at around 80F but some keepers have theirs at 90F. To start, pour 1-2 inches of gravel in the bottom of the tank. A large kritter keeper or 10 gal aquarium will house 1 scorpion. Pour 4-8 inches of peat, potting soil or mixture of both on the gravel. Then insert a 1/2-1 inch diameter pvc pipe in the corner of tank to the gravel layer.. This is for pouring water into the gravel layer which leeches up through the substrate giving the humidity the scorpion needs. Also provide a water dish and a hiding place. When the substrate dries pour some water down the tube again. This method works far better than misting all the time. If your room temp is cool you can stick a reptile heater on the SIDE of the tank which will usually warm tank about 5-7 more degrees. The one I use is a Zoo med. FEEDING Emperors will eat crickets,roaches and sometimes mealworms and superworms. They can and will go long periods of time without feeding so don't worry if the scorpion doesn't eat much at first. When they are plump they may go months without feeding. Mine will usually go from one extreme to the other. Gorging on everything they can get for awhile and then not feeding hardly at all for a month or two. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:58 pm | |
| Androctonus spp (Fat Tail Scorpions) This Genus has some of the most dangerous scorpions in the world. Androctonus amoreuxi [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Androctonus bicolor [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Androctonus australis [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]These scorpions are found from N Africa to the Middle East and into Pakistan and Western India. A australis is attributed to killing more people than any scorpion in the world. They are fast and will readily sting. These are for experienced hobbyists. In saying this, like all scorpions they can't climb glass or plastic so are easy to manage. If you decide to keep these exercise extreme caution. They are my personal favorites to keep but I try to always be cautious HOUSING They can be kept in the usual kritter keepers, plastic boxes, aquariums etc. Whatever you decide to use be sure it is secure. It wouldn't be good to have one running loose in the house. Check out the Scorpion Enclosures Thread for some pictures. SUBSTRATE These are all opportunistic burrowers from desert environments. From 1-3 inches of sand or dry peat with a hide and a small water dish will be fine. FEEDING Crickets and other insects will be readily taken by these. They always sting their prey so feeding time is always exciting to watch. TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY They do well in a dry environment with 70-85F TEMPS. I water mine about once every 2 weeks and lightly mist the substrate about once a month. VENOM TOXICITY These are very dangerously venomous!!! Be very careful when working with these. A australis is the hottest at (5). The others are at least a (4). | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:59 pm | |
| Leiurus quinquestriatus (Deathstalker) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]This scorpion is said to have the most toxic venom of any known scorpion. They are native to the deserts of N Africa and the Middle East. This is another scorpion for the advanced keeper. Be very careful with these. HOUSING The usual kritter keepers, small aquariums or plastic boxes. Provide stacked rocks or half log for a hide.Make sure the enclosure is secure. Like all scorpions they can't climb glass or plastic. SUBSTRATE Dry peat moss or sand FEEDING Crickets and other small insects TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY This is a typical desert species that does well in a dry environment. Temps should be 70-85F. Provide a small water dish about every 2 weeks and mist the substrate about once a month. If the scorpion appears like a molt is approach, more frequent misting would be good. VENOM TOXICITY (5) Very dangerously venomous!!! Exercise caution when keeping these. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:00 pm | |
| Smeringurus mesaensis (Dune Scorpion) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]This scorpion is found in sandy dune areas of Western Arizona and the Mohave Desert of California (not as common as one might think). They are commonly "harvested" and used as gifts such as belt buckles and paper weights. This species is next to impossible to breed in captivity (it has yet to be done) and is extremely fast. They seem to teleport from place to place. Despite its speed, it makes a good beginner scorpion as it tends to flee rather than attack HOUSING Adults should have a large critter keeper or small 5.5g fish tank. This species prefers and extremely dry environment with plenty of running room. SUBSTRATE Sand only FEEDING crickets (in wild, native areas 90% of an adult Smeringurus mesaensis' diet is younger S. mesaensis) TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY This species is found in some of the driest, hottest areas of the US. Daytime temperaturs should be at least 80+F. Because of their native environment, night time temps can greatly vary from daytime temps, but should keep them over 60F. Smeringurus mesaensis does not appreciate humidity and water. There is little need to keep a water dish, make sure you're crickets are well fed and hydrated and the S. mesaensis will be fine. VENOM TOXICITY Smeringurus mesaensis, while very fast, packs a fairly mild sting. On a scale from 1-5 they will rank in around 2. | |
| | | Tattoo Administrator
Posts : 3537 Novaliches, Quezon City Join date : 2009-02-21
| Subject: Re: Scorpion Caresheet Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:01 pm | |
| Parabuthus spp (Thick Tail Scorpions) [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Parabuthus liosoma [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Parabuthus transvaalicus [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]Parabuthus mossambicensis [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]These are from Southern to Eastern Africa and parts of the Middle East. They closely resemble Androctonus. At least 2 species (P tranvaalicus & P mossambicensis) are capable of spraying venom. HOUSING They can be kept in the typical deli cups, kritter keepers, sterlite boxes etc. SUBSTRATE Dry peat, sand or a mixture of both makes fine substrate. It does not not have to be very deep as these typically only make scrapes under rocks, or other ground debris. FEEDING The usual crickets, roaches and other insects. TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY These scorpions are from the deserts and savannahs of Africa so temps from 75F to 85F will work very well. Keep the humidity low but always provide a water dish especially for gravid females. VENOM TOXICITY These have potent venom of a (3). They are capable of producing large quantity of venom so therefore are considered a potentially dangerous species. Be careful if you decide to keep these. | |
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